Jewels and Socketing

Benefit of Jewels

In early game (first arc) socketing jewels is skippable. I say that because you will level up fairly quickly and change gear regularly. Celestia/Zafaria on is when you will want to consider which gear you might be keeping for a while. The gear that is socketable is going to be your athame, amulet, ring, deck and very rarely a wand. The deck is the only one (prior to Krysalis/Darkmoor) which is interchangeable based on which jewel socket it offers since they don't have an additional stat earlier on. For example, you might be a level 60 wizard who really needs accuracy but all the decks at that level only have square or tear sockets. Going down to a lower level deck for a triangle socket so that you can add accuracy is the right call. You will have a smaller deck but appreciate the sacrifice when you don't fizzle so much. 

Schools of Jewels

When you click on a jewel in your backpack you can preview what the jewel looks like. The color of the jewel should be a dead giveaway since they are the same colors that are assigned to each school. In addition, the names for these colors are the same names we have seen with those reagents that correspond to the different schools. Here is the list anyways:

Opal  - Universal
Amethyst  -  Storm
Ruby  -  Fire
Sapphire  -  Ice
Citrine  -  Balance
Jade  -  Life
Onyx  -  Death
Peridot  -  Myth
Hematite  -  Shadow

Types of Jewels

Circle (Offense): This includes, damage, critical, pierce and outgoing heals. Keep in mind the damage is a flat rate damage rather than a percent like you would see on your gear. For this reason, critical is a better bargain than damage. 

Square (Defense): This includes resist, block, stun block and incoming heals. Again, resist is a flat rate not a percentage, although out of the choices for square sockets it is usually your best option. 

Triangle: This includes power pip percent, shadow pip, accuracy and item cards. Both power pips and accuracy are extremely valuable because they help you to hit faster and consistently. Depending on your school and gear choices, you might not need any jewels to get your power pips to 100% and in that case the choice is an easy one. For everyone else, (in late game) it is good to prioritize pips, get your total to 100% and then use the remaining triangle sockets for accuracy. I am not a believer in using triangles for cards with the one exception being the Morganthe cards, mostly because they are 4 pip aoe and not all schools have that available, namely Life and Death.

Tear: This includes health, mana, energy and fishing luck percentage. As far as your everyday questing/farming gear, this is a no-brainer. If you have an athame and a ring that have energy on them you might want to use energy or fishing luck for those but for everything else, use health. 

Star: Jewels specifically for pets. In effect, it is as if you are adding an additional trait to your pet. If you add it early in the pet's life, this will prohibit your pet from learning that trait since they cannot have 2 of the same trait. I feel it is best to wait to see what the pet learns naturally, then use the jewel to supplement what your pet did not learn. 

Quality of Jewels

The quality is based on the wizard's level not the gear level. You will not be able to socket a jewel that is higher than your current level. 

Level 15 - Cracked Jewels

Level 25 - Chipped Jewels

Level 35 - Flawed Jewels

Level 45 - Blemished Jewels

Level 55 - Dull Jewels

Level 65 - Plain Jewels

Level 75 - Opaque Jewels

Level 85 - Clear Jewels

Level 95 - Polished Jewels

Level 105 - Lustrous Jewels

Level 115 - Shiny Jewels

Level 125 - Sparkling Jewels

Crafting Jewels

The first thing to keep in mind in crafting jewels: it is a gamble. There are no universal jewel recipes so forget about getting pain giver or universal resist this way. The recipes for the different jewels can be bought by your local crafting recipe NPC. Each recipe will be the school and the level range. So if your level 35 Death wizard needs some jewels you would get the recipe for Death level 35-55 jewels. You may get level 35, 45 or 55. You may get death block, death crit or death pierce, et al. 

Recipes:

Level 15

Level 15-25

Level 15-35

Level 25-45

Level 35-55

Level 45-65

Level 55-75

Level 65-85

Level 75-95

Level 85-105

Level 95-115

Usually it is wise to have your highest wizard craft jewels for your lower wizards, unless you have a friend who can taxi you to worlds you haven't unlocked yet in order to buy the recipes. The recipes in each world have a starting level lower than the average level for that world and since the level is random it would be better to get random higher rather than random lower. 

* Star jewel (pet jewels) recipes are sold in the Pet Pavilion. As far as the jewel recipes go, they are considered completely separate than the other recipes sold in each world. There are no wizard level limitations on the pet jewels however there are pet age limitations. 

Plants, Packs and Farming, Oh my!

The jewel plants (5 different plants that harvest one of each of the jewel types) I have found to be at times lucrative. I do not recommend any of the jewel packs to get jewels. It is far too random and your chances of getting all level 15 is too high. However, the Rockhammer's Jewel Pack is the way to get the jewel plant seeds, which is what I did. I started with one seed of 2 of the 5 types of plants and I have 87 plants now at least 10 of each type. Each type of seed will randomly harvest one of the other type's seed in addition to it's own. While universal resist is not included with these plants, pain giver, proof, defy and other types of universals are. Universal resist jewels are only bought with tickets or farmed. The sparkling universal resist is going to be with the end game bosses, extremely rare drops. 

Socketing Wrenches

Some jewel sockets need to be unlocked in order to socket jewels and are a one time use. To unlock them, you can either spend crowns (of course) which is on a sliding scale according to the level of the gear or you can use a socketing wrench. There are 6 different wrenches currently in the game. As the level of the equipment goes up, the wrench required may change. Keep in mind, it does not matter what level your character is, just the level of the equipment. 

Level 15-34  - Novice Wrench

Level 35-54  - Adept Wrench

Level 55-74  - Expert Wrench

Level 75-94  - Master Wrench

Level 95-114  - Artesian Wrench

Level 115-130  - Grandmaster Wrench (barring any changes made within the Karamelle/Level 140 update)

Keep in mind:

* You cannot socket jewels to anything you cannot currently wear, whether it is a higher level gear or another school's gear. 

* You cannot transfer an item with jewels on it in the shared bank. You will have to remove (destroy) the jewel in order to share the item you have previously socketed jewels on. 

* You can share jewels in the shared bank. 

* There are a few jewels (usually from the $20 W101 gift cards) that come with a special jewel that will not be broken when removed. Other than those few, all other jewels will be destroyed when removed. 

* In addition to saving very good universal gear to pass down to your lower wizards, you may want to do the same with jewels you come across as you are questing/farming. 

Reagents and Where to Find Them

It can be frustrating to find all the reagents you need for crafting especially if you limit yourself to the bazaar because you don't know where to look. Here I will provide all my favorite reagent farming spots. I chose these specific spots because there are 3+ spawns of a reagent in an area that you can make a 1 way trip to each spot within the 60 seconds for the realm change cooldown. Then you change realms at the last reagent spawn and do the same path back to the first and change realms again. In my experience, this is the fastest way to get reagents.

Aethyr Ore (EP - Inner Anthor)
Once you get the hang of this route, you can easily do this in 60 seconds, but it is the longest route I'll post.

Antiques (MR - Rubal Wastes)

Black Lotus (WT - Vestrilund)

Cat Tail (MB - Hyde Park)
Most often there's actually 5 spawns at a time of cat tails here in this fountain.

Comet Tail (KS - Cresent Beach)
So yes there are a lot of spawns here. I've never actually needed to farm Comet tail. Many of these spawns are right in the middle of enemy mobs and that's the worst for fast farming. The 2 southern most spawns are enemy free.

Deep Mushroom (AV - The Wild)
In the "Toadstool Village", just follow the compass sign. There's 4+ spawns in that small area.

Frost Flower (WT - Vestrilund)

Kelp & Shell (CL - Crustacean Empire)
The marks on the map are the kelp, there are shells in the same 2 areas as well.

Lava Lily (DS - Atheneum & Necropolis)
Just follow the lava river in those areas.

Parchment (KT - Grand Arena/Colosseum)

Pearl (CL - Suvey Camp/Grotto)
By far this is the most annoying one to get from spawns. There are only 2 here and they seem to replenish VERY slowly.

Red Mandrake (WC - Nightside)

Sandstone (AZ - Floating Mountains)
Prior to AZ we could only get sandstone by transmuting from stone block, then we always needed additional stone block for fossil. If you are not to AZ yet, hopefully you can hitch a ride and mark there. You can do the upper 3 spawns without having done the world yet, the lower left spawn you can only get to if you have done the quests in this area.

Scrap Iron (MB - Newgate Prison)
What's nice about this one, is that the iron is at each of the teleport spots.

Shocked Key/Silver Chests (MR - Eerem Palace)
So this area you cannot change realms in, you must go back to Caravan and change realms then use the teleporter again. There is at least 1 silver chest per realm in this tiny area, its much more of a sure thing than any other silver chest spawn I've seen.

Stone Block/Ore #1 (DS - Atheneum)
The yellow spots are stone block and the white are ore. The stone block is right near where you find the stone rose.

Stone Block #2 (DS - Necropolis)
Recently the first spot has become very popular so this is my back up spot for stone block.

Advanced Pet Hatching

Understanding the Mechanics of Hatching

When you hatch your pet with another pet you are in a sense combining their talents. But it isn't just a random selection of talents between the 2. The first thing to remember is that when you see a talent on the list, it's pretty much stuck on that talent slot. When you are hatching 2 pets with some duplicate talents, like say both pets have Spell-Proof, it can sometimes mix things up. Unfortunately, its not perfect.

With these dragons as an example, you can see the 2nd talent of fire giver is an uncommon talent, just like the unknown talent of the other parent. In this case, the baby could get fire giver, or the other unknown talent, whatever that is. The same goes for the 4th and 5th slots.

In the 6th and 9th slots we know it did not pass down the right talents and this is how you know if a pet is even worth training. In the 6th slot on Jasmine is Fairy which is uncommon, Roxy's 6th is a rare talent. The new baby dragon has a rare talent in the 6th slot so it did not pass down Fairy.

The same might have happened in the 9th slot but that one is a little foggy. In the 8th and 9th slots, each parent has the same rank talent but the baby has the talents reversed. For me, I don't want to waste my snacks on a this pet. First of all, it did not get Fairy, and it might have lost fire dealer as well. It's ok to be picky. If it's obvious that the pet didn't transfer over the talents you wanted, trash it and rehatch.

One of my "Pet Guru" friends told me that you put the pet with the talents you want on the right hand side. Because that first hatch didn't get Fairy, I tried this same hatch again only flipped the 2 dragons. This time all the talents were in the right slots on the baby but it still didn't get Fairy. Because both pets have almost all the same trait ranks in the same slots, it's very possible that both pets have a lot of the same talents since I know that they are connected generationally.

Getting the Bad Traits Out

If you've spent any time at all on pets you've had the same headache as everyone else. Pets get bad traits that never seem to go away.

I might hatch these 2 pets to try to get Fairy on this double resist, double damage pet. You might have noticed the bad side of this hatch is that the Fairy pet has a selfish talent. In this case, it is in the same slot as the epic trait Spell-Proof. When I do hatch the 2 pets and look at the baby's talent slots, I can see right away if the talent in the 4th slot is epic or rare. The same goes for the fairy in the 6th slot.

As far as weeding out the bad stuff, you want to hatch with a pet that has what you want in the same slot as the talent you don't want. You want their talent to replace your bad one. This is essentially what would happen in the above hatch with Spell-Proof replacing crafty. Ideally you want their good talent and your bad talent to be different ranks. That way it is obvious that you either passed down the talent or you got rid of it. You don't want to waste your snacks on a maybe pet if you can help it.

Hatching to Get a Specific Pet Back

I've heard many theories and tricks you can do in the hatching screen to try to get back a certain pet when you hatch 2 different species. I've tried them all many many times and there is still just no rhyme or reason to what pet you get back. At this point I think as long as you can get the talents you want on a pet, even if it isn't the pet that you ultimately want, just train it up with the talents the way you want them, then work on duplicating those talents onto the pet of your choice.

Some pets are more dominate, meaning that it is more likely you will receive that pet back. In my experience, the pets with single blades such as the beasts, wintry elf, carnation pixie and some others are very dominate.

Here we have my storm beast work-in-progress. As you can see, the only talents we can be sure it transferred over are the ones on the original beast. It didn't pass down proof and only time will tell if it passed down pain. The previous hatch between Misty and Tasha got a rare talent in the 2nd slot, which was another of those weird mess up things. It turned out to be Mana Gift so that was the end of that pet. There are 2 rares on the new pet and if this baby gets mana the silver lining is that I will know which slot it is really in. We won't know which pet, although I suspect it's on the beast not the pixie. Knowing which slot is very important because then I can get a pet that has something good in the same slot and hatch Mana Gift out.

Basics of Pets & Hatching

Basics of pets/hatching

The example: Tasha the carnation pixie



The fist picture is what you might see in the hatchery. Under her name is her age/level and next to that is her pedigree. The game calculates your pedigree for you but here's what it means: in the second picture you can see her talents, whether she actually learned the talents or not. In the first slot is an epic talent and you can see a circle with 4 dots. Common gets 0 dots, Uncommon - 1, Rare - 2 and Ultra Rare - 3. When you add all the dots of all the talents and derby talents, that is your pedigree. As the pet ages and learns new talents, if you add all the dots of all the learned talents and derby talents, that is the number in parenthesis next to her pedigree.

Types of Talents

Selfish Talents

They are called attribute-boosting talents but most people call them selfish talents because they provide the wizard no immediate help. These talents boost the stats that are on the right of the picture, strength, intellect and so forth. There are no epic selfish talents but there are plenty of them out there and it takes some time to get them off your pets. While it might seem nice to add more to some boost to your stats with a particular selfish trait, you are taking up a slot that could be something really helpful. This is how I look at it: say I have Tasha and instead of Pain-giver I got Mighty; both are ultra-rare talents. Mighty gives +65 to strength which boosts a talent I already had, Spell-Proof. With the stats the way they are, I have 9% on my Spell-Proof. Doing the math, if I had 65 extra strength it would boost my Proof to 10%. Ok so is that a good enough trade, 1% resist versus another talent - in this case Pain-Giver on Tasha that gives 6 universal damage? I don't think it's worth it.

Card-Giving Talents

I think card-giving talents are a waste. That's just my opinion, everyone plays differently, but I would rather have a talent that boosts your wizards stats than a single card. There are some specific situations where it might be helpful. For instance a very low level pvp wizard that doesn't have much room in their deck and would like a feint might want the card Feint on their pet. But overall, there are better uses for your talents than a single card. This is not the same as the cards that come with the pets. As you can see with Tasha, there is a Dragonblade card next to her picture. That is a card that comes with the pet initially, not one she learned.

May-Cast Talents

There are a variety of may-cast talents. Heals such as sprite, fairy, unicorn, healing current or life bat, there are may cast charms like blades or plague/smokescreen/weakness, wards like shields or traps/windstorm, auras, dispels, global spells, freeze/stun, other utility spells like disarm/pierce/steal charm or ward/taunt/snow drift, and some damage spells like lightning strike/sandstorm/snow serpent and the "sword and shield" talent that does a random shield and random blade which may or may not be useful to you.
For some reason the may cast fairy and sprite have a much higher casting rate than any of the other talents. For this reason I prefer my pets to only ever have those may cast talents. At the moment it is still a mystery what exactly triggers the pets to cast the different things. Many times with blades, the pet will blade you immediately after you hit. Or shield you immediately after the enemy hits you. That's a waste of a talent slot if the pet is not working in your favor, or never even casts the thing at all. There are many people that swear by some of these talents like the auras or unicorn. I have seen recently many aura casting pets and it seems those have a bit higher cast rate than the charms and wards. As for may cast unicorn, I don't like it. I don't think it's reliable enough to use up a talent slot. I can go days of playing with a pet never casting Unicorn and then just the other day it casts 5 times in one mob battle. If you want all heals for a pvp pet or maybe you are a jadezilla tank/healer then unicorn wouldn't be such a bad idea.

More Useless Talents

There are talents for all your wizards' stats, like critical boosting, incoming heal boosting and so on. Recently the critical boosting talents have become popular. I don't care for it, but that's just me. Critical is still just a chance no matter how high your stat is. I've seen people with over 500 critical and go without any critical hits in a battle. It's still just a chance and plus the pet talents are like 25 critical. Some people have pets with 4 critical talents which totals to about 80-100 critical but then what all do you lose out on? Some of the talents like pierce or stun resist might sound cool but when you consider that the amount you get from the pet is very small and you can only have 5 talents. You're probably going to want at least 1 heal so that's down to 4 talents available and that's with a mega pet.

The Ideal Pet

In my opinion, the ideal pets are 1 heal (I prefer Fairy), Proof, Defy and 2 damage: your school's dealer + either your school's giver or Pain-giver. On an average pet, that will net you about 14 of your school's damage, 15 universal resist and a reliable heal. That's nearly as good as the coveted waterworks gear (1 item) plus a heal you don't have to waste a turn or pips on. Dexter has Sprite instead of Fairy and his s.a.p. isn't great but you get the idea.

Making the Most of Your Talents

Many people prefer double resist pets for 2 of their talents, that is the epic trait Spell-Proof (that Tasha has) and the rare trait Spell-Defying, or Proof and Defy as most people call them. Proof and Defy provide resist to all schools, Proof as an epic trait provides a higher amount of maximum resist up to 14 universal resist although 9 or 10 resist is most commonly seen. Defy as a rare trait has a lower maximum amount of universal resist at 7 but 5 or 6 resist is most common.
Because damage and resist talents are the most common and the most desired, I'll focus on those. When your pet learns a talent like Proof, when you mouse over the talent in your book, it says how much resist your pet currently has. For resistance talents, the amount of resistance is determined by how high your strength and agility bar is. As you train the pet, and those 2 bars go up, the amount of resistance will go up as well. The same goes for damage talents except that damage is determined by strength and will.

What's So Great About S.A.P.

S.A.P. is the acronym for Strength, Agility and Power. These 3 stats are great for resist talents. The higher the max S.A.P. stats are, the higher the resist is going to be if you get Proof or Defy or some other resist talent. If you want your damage talents to be higher, it is Str, Will and Power, so it's not always all about the S.A.P. In fact it takes so much Strength, Agility and Power to get to 10% resist, you need over 250 for each of them (or a combination of 750 for all 3) to get 10 resist for Proof. That's a lot! And think of the traits you might lose in hatching with pets that have that high of stats but might have traits you don't want. It can be done, I've seen pets that are that good, but it takes a lot of work.

This is the formula for Spell-Proof or any school Proof:
(2*Strength + 2*Agility + Power)/125
And the formula for Spell-Defy or any school Defy:
(2*Strength + 2*Agility + Power)/250

The School-Specific Damage talents:
Dealer:
(2*Strength + 2*Will + Power)x3/400
Giver:
(2*Strength + 2*Will + Power)/200

And Universal Damage:
Pain-Giver:
(2*Strength + 2*Will + Power)/200
Pain-Bringer (this one is pretty much useless):
(2*Strength + 2*Will + Power)/400

The Games People Play

There are lots of games to choose from, including the browser-based Grub Guardian. My theory on the games is choose the game that you do best and do the fastest. With a few exceptions, there are enough varieties within each game as far as which stats they boost that you can do almost any game and focus on certain stats.

Some Pet Training Myths

I call it a myth just because maybe it works maybe it doesn't. So far, it has worked for me with just a few exceptions. Say you know from what talents the 2 parents had that your pet will have Proof and Pain and you want your new baby pet to learn those 2 talents. Proof being a resist talent and Pain being a damage talent, you want to take off all your gear, or go get some gear that does not have any resist or damage to any school. I like to find things that boost everything else under the sun except resist and damage. The theory is that as you train your pet, the game evaluates what your wizard is lacking and if it has a choice between a health boost talent and a resist talent it looks at which you need most. So if your training gear has no resist but tons of health, it will give you the resist talent rather than the health talent.
*Just a disclaimer, this only works if the pet has this particular talent available on the list of talents. Like that old expression you can't get blood from a turnip? Well you can't get your pet to learn Proof if it just isn't there to begin with.

Other pet training myths have to do with only raising certain stats first. Because most people want damage and/or resist traits and intellect is the only one that does not raise either of those, many people believe that you should work on the other stats and not raise intellect at all until Ancient or so. Others believe you should work on strength and agility exclusively, by doing a game that only gives those 2 and feeding the pet snacks that only have those 2 which would be really hard to find since many snacks have power. This tactic has worked for me somewhat.

Overall, these tactics don't really hurt anything, you aren't wasting crowns or wasting your time too much by doing these different things. I feel like, it can't hurt, right?

Tricks To Make a Pet Trigger

There are many many things that people do to try to get their pet to trigger a may cast in battle. I think we as a wizard society have pretty much moved on past the "Good Boy" age. Many people believe it doesn't help at all to "praise" your pet with the good boy or good girl chat phrases. Some believe it makes them cast less.

Feeding the Pet

When you open your backpack, you can select items like gear, housing items or seeds and choose to feed it to your pet instead of selling it or using it. I have found that a lot of no auction items, or items that say 'crowns only' work the best. I have several King Parsley plants that I keep just for the extra seeds they drop which are crowns only. I feed those seeds to my pet until the box pops up saying that the pet has gained experience.

Training the Pet

Training the pet for 2-3 games can help wake up the pet, especially if you just logged on and haven't fought any battles yet.

Using the Pet's Card in Battle

If you don't have time to train or just don't want to, and you don't have anything to feed your pet, do a few battles using your pet's card. That's the card that comes with the pet, not a learned card talent. I do this a lot. I will use the blade that's on a pet, or the storm beetle card in a few consecutive battles and my pet starts healing me.


A lot of this is thanks to 3 "Pet Guru" friends of mine: Catherine SoulHunter, Angela LifeWhisper and Rachel FireRider and of course Sabrina WildHeart.